Playlist of My (Ghana) Life
Over the past two weeks, I have been obsessed with watching Teen Vogue's "Playlist of My Life" videos (since I have had access to Wifi and don't have to waste data waiting for things to buffer). It is so fun to hear what songs mean a lot to famous actors and musicians and the memories they elicit.
Inspired by these videos, I have made a playlist of my Ghana life full of songs that, ten, twenty, and even fifty years from now, will make me think of my time here.
Note- I obviously do not own any of these songs. I am only adding these videos to make the listening experience easier for any friends and family reading this post.
1. AKWAABA - GuiltyBeatz (ft. Mr Eazi, Pappy Kojo and Patapaa)
As soon as you arrive on Ghana soil, you see all sorts of signs with "Akwaaba!!" emblazoned on them. It takes only a few minutes to realize this means "welcome" in Twi, the language most widely spoken in southern Ghana.
When I started training in Eastern Region, this song was ALL the rage. It sparked dance-offs between teenagers and had toddlers swaying to its beat. Hearing it reminds me of my home stay family-- watching my host brother and his friends copy the official dance (what you see on this video) and try to get me to join. It also provided a glimpse into how music can unite people from all walks of life, as no sooner had I arrived in Wa when I caught my deaf students dancing to the same song so many hundreds of miles away!
2. SWEAT (A LA LA LA LONG) - Inner Circle
So I cheated a little bit with this one. While the other songs on this list are ones I discovered while serving in the Peace Corps, I first heard this one while studying abroad here. My little study abroad group heard that there was a reggae festival in Accra while we were there and all decided to go check it out (I like reggae a lot so I was excited to go). It turned out it was vastly overhyped and ended up just being a stage set up by the ocean with a DJ playing some songs he liked. Hardly anyone was there. However, we felt that since we had traveled all that way we would at least dance a little bit. This song ended up being my favorite from the night, and every time I hear it (no matter if I'm in London, Accra, Thailand, or Chicago) I'm instantly transported to that night.
3. MAAME HYɛ - Ebony
Here in Ghana, Ebony is a LEGEND. She is revered for all of the hit songs she had during her short career (she was sadly killed in a car accident in February 2018).
Truly, all of her songs are catchy and well-executed. However, this one always stood out to me because she talks about domestic violence. I didn't realize it at first, especially since a substantial portion of it is in Twi. However, after several listens I was hooked and loved her for using her popularity to take on such a controversial topic (most songs here, as in the USA, are about much more lighthearted topics).
Now it reminds me of homestay in Eastern Region, when her music was played on an unending loop as people mourned her death. It was strange to enter into a place where everyone was devastated about one event but I had no knowledge of it. It also reminds me of tro tro rides, where people even now start tearing up or praying for her whenever her music videos come on the TV screen.
4. MY TRUST IS IN YOU - David G
Another homestay classic. The Christian music scene is HUGE in Ghana, especially in the south, so one often hears them on bus rides between Accra and Kumasi or as people's ringtones. This one in particular was my homestay mom's ringtone and her phone was always ringing, so after awhile I had the first 45 seconds memorized, note for note and word for word. They also would play it over the loudspeakers in the morning, telling the community it was time to get the day started. Unfortunately, that was often at 5am, and my house was right by the loudspeakers.
5. SWEET FANTA DIALLO - Alpha Blondy
Bus drivers in Ghana have a thing for reggae music. I don't complain, since, as I have already mentioned, I love reggae. This makes every tro tro ride a time to listen to some reggae artists I had previously never heard of. I remember this one in particular-- I was going down to Accra after our midservice training in Kumasi and the bus driver played Alpha Blondy's entire music catalogue during the 4.5 hour trip. His music, exemplified by this catchy, upbeat number, made the ride so much more bearable.
6. KILLING ME SOFTLY - Adina (ft. Kwami Eugene)
This one was a favorite of my host brother back during training and soon became one of my favorites. The best part? The "Adina-dina" boys in the background (my host cousin used to sing Adina's part and ALL the neighborhood boys would passionately sing this part as if the song was whole without it. It cracked me up every time.)
This ended up being my alarm to signal the end of class back in Wa and it makes me think of collecting all the art my kiddos finished at the end of the day and how happy that always made me.
7. YOU ARE GREAT - Steve Crown
Another "God song," this one was a favorite among the Wa Deaf staff, but especially to Gabriela, the home economics teacher. This was her phone ring tone and, whenever she heard it, she burst out singing. Sometimes she missed her call she was enjoying the song so much. I miss hearing her extremely off-key rendition of this song, which often brightened my day as much as it did hers.
8. 111 666 - Daddy Lumba
A favorite of tro tro drivers. Just hearing this song brings me back to looking out the window at the savanna landscapes of the Northern and Upper West regions and watching people in the villages we passed just carry out with their daily activities.
The best part? When kids appear out of nowhere to sing "111 666" in German. I don't know who thought that was a good idea, but I'm here for it.
9. TEAR RUBBER - Yaa Jackson
I heard this song for the first time at Prisons, the spot at which Upper West Peace Corps Volunteers would congregate on weekends, and fell in love. Similar to what I did with "Different Colours" by Lucky Dube, I attempted to write down as many lyrics as I could to figure out the name of the song. Unfortunately, since most of the song is in Twi, I spelled everything SO VERY WRONG and so couldn't find anything online. I finally figured it out a few months later after I mentioned I was looking for a song sounding like "tyah rohbah" to a Ghanaian and they knew which one I was talking about.
If you want a peek into the world of Ghanaian Youtube comments on music videos, look at the ones that appear for this video. Commenters are split pretty evenly on this one, either expressing outrage over the sexual dances and innuendos included in the video ("Little girl give your self to God and stop this rubbish, awww,Ghana what's happening?") or loving it ("Love the music tho but please next time make sure u don't wear any dress at all just G string n Bra Only"). I just hope Yaa doesn't read these. If reading them myself makes me uncomfortable, I can't imagine how she would feel.
10. NOTIN I GET - Fameye (ft. Kwami Eugene)
While most of the song is in Twi, this song is a BOP and probably the only song that will get me on the dance floor.
Check out both music videos for this song. One includes great footage of what daily life in Accra looks like (the buildings, people working, etc.) and the other features a funny "lesson" in which Fameye poses as a rich boy (although he is really a cleaner for a rich person's house) and gets robbed for looking as such... much to the disappointment of the men who robbed him, as they find out his briefcase is empty except for a paper printed with "NOTIN I GET.")
11. DIFFERENT COLOURS - Lucky Dube
Being in Ghana for awhile, I noticed that many of the cars and buses around had the words "Lucky Dube" pasted on them. I had never heard of that name before, so I assumed it meant something in pidgin (pidgin is a Twi-English mashup language spoken mostly in southern Ghana, but sometimes found up north).
Flash forward to a long overnight bus ride on my way back to Wa. The entire bus ride, the driver played the same reggae album over and over. While this could have been annoying, I fell in love with the music and wrote down as many lyrics as I could so I could figure out who this singer was. To my surprise, it was the same Lucky Dube whose name I had seen so many places! Ever since, my brain has been on Lucky Dube high alert, and if I even hear the faint notes of one of his songs playing from far away, I can't help but come closer so I can listen along.
You have to admit an artist is great when they can make a 14-hour bus ride enjoyable.
12. MELISSA - Shatta Wale
Most everyone in Ghana is on one side of the eternal debate: Shatta Wale or Stonebwoy? These boys are probably the biggest names in Ghana, supported by the fact that they both have sign names in the deaf community.
Shatta has dozens of smash hits and has even recorded with Beyonce (on her album accompanying The Lion King movie) and they are always catchy and fun. However, I cannot get enough of this song. A favorite of tuk tuk drivers, it is a reminder of fun nights hanging out with my Peace Corps friends and taking a tuk tuk home feeling tired but so happy.
13. OLOLO - Stonebwoy
Now that you've heard Shatta, I had to include some Stonebwoy (the "w" is silent). This boy's music is everywhere, but this and "Kpo Keke" are spot jams. The entire vibe is sitting in a spot (outdoor bar) and just chilling with PC buddies while drinking some local brews and maybe watching a goat give birth next to you (it has happened to me).
I also chose this one because it includes Teni, a Nigerian artist who I recently discovered and have fallen in love with. While most other woman artists in Ghana look like models and dress like it, Teni doesn't have abs or legs for days and wears whatever she wants. She's like a role model for kids who want to adopt a more genderqueer look and I'm here for it.
14. DAGOMBA GIRL - Maccasio (ft. Mugeez)
Most famous musicians in Ghana are from the south and sing in Twi-lish (a combination of English and Twi). However, more and more are coming from the north and gain cult-like followings from northern youth excited to see someone like them make it big.
When I saw that there was a hit song called "Dagomba Girl," I had to listen (Dagombas are the tribe whose native territory includes Tamale). As a now-proud Tamalean, I got so excited when he started namedropping Tamale and towns nearby: Bimbilla, Yendi, Salaga (I haven't been to Yendi and Bimbilla but now I really want to go check them out). It's like that feeling American millennials get when they hear their area code rapped in Ludacris's "Area Codes."
Some other observations about this song that get me: girls here DO NOT dress like the girls in this video. Ever. Northern Region is probably the most conservative of Ghana's regions, so women would never walk around in short shorts and a crop top unless they wanted unending harassment.
Also "buy one you get one free"? What a genius lyric about a culture that accepts and advocates polygamy. I died laughing when I heard that.
15. VILLAGE SEX - Wiyaala
Okay, please don't be turned off by the title. I actually laughed when I saw that that was the name of one of her hits and HAD to listen to it. It's funny and creative, like all of her other music and even herself. She marches to the beat of her own drum and it shows.
But why is Wiyaala so great? She's from Wa! She's half Waale and half Sisaala (two of the biggest tribes in Upper West region) and includes the languages they speak in her music. She is proud of her home and is always trying to give back. She even agreed to come to a camp we were planning in Wa and give a talk! Sadly, we were moved before it could come to fruition, but imagine-- a person whose music is known across the globe coming to speak to some junior high school students! What a gem.
Inspired by these videos, I have made a playlist of my Ghana life full of songs that, ten, twenty, and even fifty years from now, will make me think of my time here.
Note- I obviously do not own any of these songs. I am only adding these videos to make the listening experience easier for any friends and family reading this post.
1. AKWAABA - GuiltyBeatz (ft. Mr Eazi, Pappy Kojo and Patapaa)
As soon as you arrive on Ghana soil, you see all sorts of signs with "Akwaaba!!" emblazoned on them. It takes only a few minutes to realize this means "welcome" in Twi, the language most widely spoken in southern Ghana.
When I started training in Eastern Region, this song was ALL the rage. It sparked dance-offs between teenagers and had toddlers swaying to its beat. Hearing it reminds me of my home stay family-- watching my host brother and his friends copy the official dance (what you see on this video) and try to get me to join. It also provided a glimpse into how music can unite people from all walks of life, as no sooner had I arrived in Wa when I caught my deaf students dancing to the same song so many hundreds of miles away!
2. SWEAT (A LA LA LA LONG) - Inner Circle
So I cheated a little bit with this one. While the other songs on this list are ones I discovered while serving in the Peace Corps, I first heard this one while studying abroad here. My little study abroad group heard that there was a reggae festival in Accra while we were there and all decided to go check it out (I like reggae a lot so I was excited to go). It turned out it was vastly overhyped and ended up just being a stage set up by the ocean with a DJ playing some songs he liked. Hardly anyone was there. However, we felt that since we had traveled all that way we would at least dance a little bit. This song ended up being my favorite from the night, and every time I hear it (no matter if I'm in London, Accra, Thailand, or Chicago) I'm instantly transported to that night.
3. MAAME HYɛ - Ebony
Here in Ghana, Ebony is a LEGEND. She is revered for all of the hit songs she had during her short career (she was sadly killed in a car accident in February 2018).
Truly, all of her songs are catchy and well-executed. However, this one always stood out to me because she talks about domestic violence. I didn't realize it at first, especially since a substantial portion of it is in Twi. However, after several listens I was hooked and loved her for using her popularity to take on such a controversial topic (most songs here, as in the USA, are about much more lighthearted topics).
Now it reminds me of homestay in Eastern Region, when her music was played on an unending loop as people mourned her death. It was strange to enter into a place where everyone was devastated about one event but I had no knowledge of it. It also reminds me of tro tro rides, where people even now start tearing up or praying for her whenever her music videos come on the TV screen.
4. MY TRUST IS IN YOU - David G
Another homestay classic. The Christian music scene is HUGE in Ghana, especially in the south, so one often hears them on bus rides between Accra and Kumasi or as people's ringtones. This one in particular was my homestay mom's ringtone and her phone was always ringing, so after awhile I had the first 45 seconds memorized, note for note and word for word. They also would play it over the loudspeakers in the morning, telling the community it was time to get the day started. Unfortunately, that was often at 5am, and my house was right by the loudspeakers.
5. SWEET FANTA DIALLO - Alpha Blondy
Bus drivers in Ghana have a thing for reggae music. I don't complain, since, as I have already mentioned, I love reggae. This makes every tro tro ride a time to listen to some reggae artists I had previously never heard of. I remember this one in particular-- I was going down to Accra after our midservice training in Kumasi and the bus driver played Alpha Blondy's entire music catalogue during the 4.5 hour trip. His music, exemplified by this catchy, upbeat number, made the ride so much more bearable.
6. KILLING ME SOFTLY - Adina (ft. Kwami Eugene)
This one was a favorite of my host brother back during training and soon became one of my favorites. The best part? The "Adina-dina" boys in the background (my host cousin used to sing Adina's part and ALL the neighborhood boys would passionately sing this part as if the song was whole without it. It cracked me up every time.)
This ended up being my alarm to signal the end of class back in Wa and it makes me think of collecting all the art my kiddos finished at the end of the day and how happy that always made me.
7. YOU ARE GREAT - Steve Crown
Another "God song," this one was a favorite among the Wa Deaf staff, but especially to Gabriela, the home economics teacher. This was her phone ring tone and, whenever she heard it, she burst out singing. Sometimes she missed her call she was enjoying the song so much. I miss hearing her extremely off-key rendition of this song, which often brightened my day as much as it did hers.
8. 111 666 - Daddy Lumba
A favorite of tro tro drivers. Just hearing this song brings me back to looking out the window at the savanna landscapes of the Northern and Upper West regions and watching people in the villages we passed just carry out with their daily activities.
The best part? When kids appear out of nowhere to sing "111 666" in German. I don't know who thought that was a good idea, but I'm here for it.
9. TEAR RUBBER - Yaa Jackson
I heard this song for the first time at Prisons, the spot at which Upper West Peace Corps Volunteers would congregate on weekends, and fell in love. Similar to what I did with "Different Colours" by Lucky Dube, I attempted to write down as many lyrics as I could to figure out the name of the song. Unfortunately, since most of the song is in Twi, I spelled everything SO VERY WRONG and so couldn't find anything online. I finally figured it out a few months later after I mentioned I was looking for a song sounding like "tyah rohbah" to a Ghanaian and they knew which one I was talking about.
If you want a peek into the world of Ghanaian Youtube comments on music videos, look at the ones that appear for this video. Commenters are split pretty evenly on this one, either expressing outrage over the sexual dances and innuendos included in the video ("Little girl give your self to God and stop this rubbish, awww,Ghana what's happening?") or loving it ("Love the music tho but please next time make sure u don't wear any dress at all just G string n Bra Only"). I just hope Yaa doesn't read these. If reading them myself makes me uncomfortable, I can't imagine how she would feel.
10. NOTIN I GET - Fameye (ft. Kwami Eugene)
While most of the song is in Twi, this song is a BOP and probably the only song that will get me on the dance floor.
Check out both music videos for this song. One includes great footage of what daily life in Accra looks like (the buildings, people working, etc.) and the other features a funny "lesson" in which Fameye poses as a rich boy (although he is really a cleaner for a rich person's house) and gets robbed for looking as such... much to the disappointment of the men who robbed him, as they find out his briefcase is empty except for a paper printed with "NOTIN I GET.")
11. DIFFERENT COLOURS - Lucky Dube
Being in Ghana for awhile, I noticed that many of the cars and buses around had the words "Lucky Dube" pasted on them. I had never heard of that name before, so I assumed it meant something in pidgin (pidgin is a Twi-English mashup language spoken mostly in southern Ghana, but sometimes found up north).
Flash forward to a long overnight bus ride on my way back to Wa. The entire bus ride, the driver played the same reggae album over and over. While this could have been annoying, I fell in love with the music and wrote down as many lyrics as I could so I could figure out who this singer was. To my surprise, it was the same Lucky Dube whose name I had seen so many places! Ever since, my brain has been on Lucky Dube high alert, and if I even hear the faint notes of one of his songs playing from far away, I can't help but come closer so I can listen along.
You have to admit an artist is great when they can make a 14-hour bus ride enjoyable.
12. MELISSA - Shatta Wale
Most everyone in Ghana is on one side of the eternal debate: Shatta Wale or Stonebwoy? These boys are probably the biggest names in Ghana, supported by the fact that they both have sign names in the deaf community.
Shatta has dozens of smash hits and has even recorded with Beyonce (on her album accompanying The Lion King movie) and they are always catchy and fun. However, I cannot get enough of this song. A favorite of tuk tuk drivers, it is a reminder of fun nights hanging out with my Peace Corps friends and taking a tuk tuk home feeling tired but so happy.
13. OLOLO - Stonebwoy
Now that you've heard Shatta, I had to include some Stonebwoy (the "w" is silent). This boy's music is everywhere, but this and "Kpo Keke" are spot jams. The entire vibe is sitting in a spot (outdoor bar) and just chilling with PC buddies while drinking some local brews and maybe watching a goat give birth next to you (it has happened to me).
I also chose this one because it includes Teni, a Nigerian artist who I recently discovered and have fallen in love with. While most other woman artists in Ghana look like models and dress like it, Teni doesn't have abs or legs for days and wears whatever she wants. She's like a role model for kids who want to adopt a more genderqueer look and I'm here for it.
14. DAGOMBA GIRL - Maccasio (ft. Mugeez)
Most famous musicians in Ghana are from the south and sing in Twi-lish (a combination of English and Twi). However, more and more are coming from the north and gain cult-like followings from northern youth excited to see someone like them make it big.
When I saw that there was a hit song called "Dagomba Girl," I had to listen (Dagombas are the tribe whose native territory includes Tamale). As a now-proud Tamalean, I got so excited when he started namedropping Tamale and towns nearby: Bimbilla, Yendi, Salaga (I haven't been to Yendi and Bimbilla but now I really want to go check them out). It's like that feeling American millennials get when they hear their area code rapped in Ludacris's "Area Codes."
Some other observations about this song that get me: girls here DO NOT dress like the girls in this video. Ever. Northern Region is probably the most conservative of Ghana's regions, so women would never walk around in short shorts and a crop top unless they wanted unending harassment.
Also "buy one you get one free"? What a genius lyric about a culture that accepts and advocates polygamy. I died laughing when I heard that.
15. VILLAGE SEX - Wiyaala
Okay, please don't be turned off by the title. I actually laughed when I saw that that was the name of one of her hits and HAD to listen to it. It's funny and creative, like all of her other music and even herself. She marches to the beat of her own drum and it shows.
But why is Wiyaala so great? She's from Wa! She's half Waale and half Sisaala (two of the biggest tribes in Upper West region) and includes the languages they speak in her music. She is proud of her home and is always trying to give back. She even agreed to come to a camp we were planning in Wa and give a talk! Sadly, we were moved before it could come to fruition, but imagine-- a person whose music is known across the globe coming to speak to some junior high school students! What a gem.
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